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Kyajo Ri A long bus man's holiday
Home at last after a great Adventure in the Khumbu
Kyajo Ri from Camp 1 ( Photo Rick Graham)Adele is now back in the UK, just a little later than expected after summiting Kyajo ri with the Climber's Club Khumbu Expedition. Adele and Rick summited on the 7th November after the whole team had unfortunately retreated from a height of 6000m on the 5th November due to lack of time.
Col Camp Without Sherpa support the team worked hard to establish Col camp at 5700m and on the 5th November set off after the dawn winds had died down. Climbing Alpine style in teams of three Kyajo Ri did not relent and at 3pm it was time to return back to the camp. Pleased with their attempt the team settled down to a night of sleep. At 3am they were woken by the large commercial team of Germans who made a tremendous effort with their Sherpa's and summited in the most perfect conditions, together with Tunc and Guntis the Turkish Swiss team who had been with Adele on Makalu. Not quite satisfied that a final attempt had been made Adele and Rick decided to share what food they had left and a packet of Ginger nuts donated by Mike and planned an ascent on the 7th November. After climbing Alpine style on the 5th the Duo were content to use the fixed ropes put up by the Germans...to speed up their ascent! But oh no! and correctly so, every piece of rope apart from a 50m stretch on the summit was stripped! Adele and Rick shrugged their shoulders and giggled that the thought of cheating was now not even an option. At 3am on the 7th the alarm went off! The wind was howling and the temperature must have been close to minus 25 degree C. The stove was put on and water boiled for hours as Adele and Rick slowly prepared themselves. Too cold and windy to go out the dawn rose and slowly the winds dropped to a reasonable level. At 7am Adele and Rick were off. Pitch after pitch of perfect climbing with Rick trailing a 100m of rope for their descent.
Rick on the 4th or 5th pitch!Pitch after pitch came at around Scottish grade two. Just perfectly interspersed with granite giving the whole climb a Cairngorm feel. Finally just before 2pm Adele and Rick reached the final 50m of very dodgy Korean rope. Deciding to maintain their Alpine style the pair stood (sat) on the small summit around 2.30pm.
Rick on Summit
Adele on Summit in newly designed down suit from PHD designs
.Now with a 60m rope and a 100m fixed rope left lower down the mountain, the summit pair descended very slowly back to the col where dinner of one pack of noodles didnt take too long to prepare.In despair that the excitement of the day kept them awake more distasteful jokes were told until dawn broke. Not wanting to leave the warmth of their sleeping bags another tea bag was recycled. Eventually Adele screamed as the tent door was opened and Pasang and Tek dived into the tent delivering cheese and biscuits. Worried about us the naughty Sherpas were delighted to share in our succcess and the cheese and bisciuts. After establishing we were happy to walk down over 2000m to a lower camp they disappeared.
With no other option we packed away the camp and wobbled down with massively laden packs thoroughly enjoying the remoteness of this valley which was now empty of climbers. Fiona greeted us at lowerbase camp were a final candle lit dinner for three started to replace some energy. The next day to Namche was aided with a couple of bottles of beer on route and the thought of being back in Kathmandu led us to dream of good food and clean clothes. Oh No!!!
On arriving in Lukla we were so excited and in the morning we were ready and waiting.......and waiting....... the weather closed in and " No Flights" today was rumoured around the guest house. For the next five days or rightly so three for Vic and Mike we explored the delights of Happy hour in the Irish Bar, got ill from the bakeries and lived in hope of a helicopter. On day five the final decision for Mel, Adele, Rick and Fiona was made and as we searched around Lukla in the snow for sober willing porters to carry our loads, other trekkers huddled around fires. As soon as the reality set in we refocused and began to really enjoy the magnificent walk out. Trying to walk out in 4 days proved to be a challenge as well as trying to change money to ensure we had the essential 45,0000 Rps for our six porters who were now rising to the bait and trying to keep up with their team of " Fit Trekkers" The weather cleared and planes flew above us but it was too late now and who cared as the scenery and atmosphere of the trekking was brilliant. At last though and after Adele had been caught stealing drinks from the porters we reached the road head and fortunately found a Land Rover ( and driver) to take us to Jiri for a further sum of 6000Rps that we didnt have. Eventually in the dark we turned up to a hotel... and being honest we explained that we had NO Money No worries a loan was granted and we happily ate our way through part of the menu. Using the washing facilities was regected as one more day in stinky clothes now didnt matter.
Prisoner 113 please pay attention to your hygiene!( Private Joke)Just six hours away from Kathmandu we anxiously waited for our arranged transport! Not letting our Land Rover driver leave we jumped back in and drove towards our driver who was now lost and had already crashed the van. Dissapointingly we met him but were now holding a 2000rp fine for the chicken that crossed the road. Loaded up we set off only to stop 1/2 hr down the road with our first puncture. Ahh but then the back door wouldnt go back on ..... and then it was taken off and put on the roof..... What you want to stop for Dhal Bat and the story went on. By nightfall we arrived fithly tired but still laughing only just..... MEAT and BEER resolved everything for a while.
Putting the back door of the van on the roof.Brilliant it was nearly over we would soon be home bound just $42 for an extra visa ££££ for a change of flights and then......The wrong boarding card in Kathmandu. Adele on the conveyer belt chasing her bags ..... a lost wallet... A flight from Dheli that had an emergency turn around due to a serious technical problem..... a minibreak in Mumbai.. But well done Air India as after an hour wait in Heathrow ALL our Bags Arrived!!What a brilliant Adventure and with a true Alpine Ascent of Kyajo Ri in the BAGOn a serious note Adele would like to Apologise to RAFMA and AOEH for failing to deliver their after dinner speeches and Scunthorpe School for failing to attend School on Friday. Thanks go to Andy Huddlestone for fielding my e mails and replying to Buckingham Palace? Fiona for organising the expedition. Ian Wall Sarita and Kawel in Kathmandu for their assistance. Rick for being my partner in Crime on summit day and my Mum and Dad for filling my fridge with food for my return.Adele is now back at her desk where she aims to be for the next couple of days at least!
Posted on 24 Nov 2011 by adele
Adele and the team have been stranded in Lukla for over a week owing to bad weather closing the Airport. With no break in the weather imminent they have now decided to walk out which will take about 5 days.
Adele hopes to be back in the UK in about a weeks time.
Posted on 17 Nov 2011 by adele
Adele texted this morning that the team had successfully summitted Kayjo Ri on their second attempt.
The summit was reached on November 8th in Alpine style. The team are due back in KTM in the next couple of days.
Full details and photos to follow soon
Posted on 10 Nov 2011 by adele
Adele reports by text message that the Team are now at their first Camp (as of 26/10/11) at the mouth of the Kayajo Valley at an altitude of 3770m. There will be at least another three days travel to get to their remote Base Camp at the head of the valley.
Everyone is well and looking forward to beginning the climb.
More news comms permitting.
Posted on 28 Oct 2011 by adele
Update 1: At Namche
Adele reports that the Climbers Club team are all fit and well and are now in Namche.
Email is difficult but Adele hopes to get some photos for the website soon.
Posted on 25 Oct 2011 by adele
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