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Makalu 2011 Update 9
On Saturday 30th April it was back up to C1. After sleeping at C1 on the 30th they left for C2 on Sunday. Tucked under a serac band at 6,670m, C2 has fantastic views of Everest, Lhotse and Baruntse. Today (Monday) they intended to explore the route to C3 on the Makalu La. This is one of the most technical sections of climbing Makalu. It involves movement over ice and snow covered rocks up to an angle of 50 degrees as well as snowfields subject to avalanche danger and sections of blue ice.
After returning to C2 for an overnight on Monday night they should return to ABC on Tuesday 3rd.
Posted on 02 May 2011 by adele
Makalu 2011 Update 8
Adele has e-mailed from Advance Base Camp with the following report:
The team have just returned from a three day, two night acclimatisation cycle. This year the route has changed slightly and a 200m fixed rope has to be ascended to gain access to camp 1 at 6440m. On leaving ABC on the 25th April the team were caught in a storm whilst ascending the rope. Truly Scottish with spindrift swirling around as we made slow progress up the rope. Eventually we reached Camp 1 and hurridely settled into our tents, warmed up and got a brew. Still fighting with the spindrift silence fell on the camp as we all snoozed after our tiring day. The wind blew and the snow fell and the following morning did not bring us perfect blue skies but more snow and wind. Acclimatising in our tents we eventually braved the outside conditions as our Sherpa's ascended to camp 2. Before long we were settling down for our second night at this altitude. More snow fell overnight and by 9.30am the following morning there was a break in the weather and we made our escape back down the ropes and across the glacier back to the comfort of ABC. After egg, beans and chips and several cups of tea we began to feel human again and all were looking forward to a couple of rest days before heading back up to camp 1 and camp 2.
For Adele sleeping at 6440m was a break through as it both exceeded the altitude she had reached in Ecuador and obviously had slept at since her thoracic surgery. Not without concern and having to keep the tent light on Adele had a resltess first night but felt as good as anyone else at this altitude.
Makalu is a magnificent mountain and today as the sun shone at ABC making showering a pleasurable rather than a cold experience it is difficult to imagine what this mountain can throw at you!
Ron Rutland descending fixed ropes back to ABC.
Posted on 01 May 2011 by adele
Makalu 2011 Update 7
Adele reports via e-mail from Makalu Base Camp that after 6 days aclimatisation everyone is doing well. Her despatch dated 23/04/11 reads:
' The Makalu team has now been at Advance Base Camp (5740m) for six days and everyone is doing well. Yesterday we had our first foray onto the Mountain and climbed up to 6200m towards Camp 1. this year Camp 1 (6440m) is at a new site some 200m above the fixed ropes rigged by the Sherpa Team yesterday.
We are now enjoying better weather at Base Camp and although at night the teperature falls to minus 10 degrees the days are warm and sunny. This has allowed us to catch up on some washing and some well needed showers.
On Monday it is no Bank Holiday for the Makalu team as we set off for a few days to sleep at Camp 1 before ascending to Camp 2.'
The above photograph shows Adele walking up to Camp 1 with her 'Gregory Pack' and 'Source Hydration Unit' in use.
Posted on 24 Apr 2011 by adele
Makalu 2011 Update 6
The team have just spent 3 days aclimatising at Advance Base camp. This included a walk to a new 'high point' for the Expedition of 5900m. After a day preparing and sorting gear yesterday the team are leaving today on the push to Camp 1.
Camp 1 is at 6300m and will be the highest Adele has been since her illness after returning from Makalu last year.
Posted on 22 Apr 2011 by adele
Makalu 2011 Update 4
The team have now all reached Basecamp at 4848m, everyone is fit and well and enjoying stunning views of the mountain and its environs.
Posted on 14 Apr 2011 by adele
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