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Busy out Climbing 18th Feb

Getting back to Scotland last Wednesday was quite exciting as the snow filled in the Ranoch Mor Road. Eventually after a much longer drive than expected Adelelanded back in Scotland as the freezing level soared above the summits.

On Friday Adele and Andy made up fro a dissapoinying day on Thursday by taking in both the Zig Zags  and an ascent of Dorsal variant. Ducking and diving around the other parties on the ridge the route was finished by a little cheaky chimney pitch behind the Fins.

Andy on Dorsal variant.

For Andy it always seems that the Scottish weather is against him and it may be true as the weekend and today brought much better conditions.

It was the Barker's annual Scottish weekend with Thomas having set his sights on Dorsal Arete as his first route with his Dad. Despite moaning about the Lochan path Adele chatterd her way up to the Coire and was suprised how good conditions were.

Yet again Dorsal did not disappoint and Thomas thoroughly enjoyed his first winter route. Meanwhile Frazer was making an ascent of the wee Buchaille with Brian (71) and Chris.

Meeting back at the cafe everyone had had a super day. With a little encouragement  it was decided that Brian and Chris should up their game and join Stephen and Thomas on Ledge Route. The conditions were amazing as the Ben came out in full glory.

The Team at the top of Ledge route

With ample time to spare someone mentioned going to the summit ! to finish off the day.

The fine weather has continued today and meeting Alison last night it was soon decided that the Anoch Eagach had to be on the cards. Leaving early the girls excitedly positioned the two vehicles and made a great crossing of the ridge.

Alison at the start of the ridge.

Flying across in style the duo were very chuffed with themselves until their was a discussion about car keys.

Anne on the chimney pitch.

So where were the keys to the car left at the Clachaig............Ahh who's fault

Thanks to Scott and Dave who kindly solved the issue and took us back to Milly who was looking after the car keys.

A truly fantastic Scottish day.

 

Great End Central Gully 12 Feb

Roger on the third pitch of Gt End Centra; Gully

How things can change!Just two days ago Adele Roger and John experienced a delightful day and cruised up Great End Central Gully. Leaving Keswick at 9am the team wandered in and climbed five pitches of this Classic Cold Climb. For John this was his first experience of Winter climbing. Today back in Scotland just two days later the ice was soggy and the avalanche debris very evident as a big thaw had set in. Lets hope conditions improve for tomorrow.

The Boys return 11th Feb

Arranging an 8am pick up Adele was sad to see only three of the four boys tucking into their fried breakfast! Poor John had missed his flight and sadly missed a fantastic weekend.  This was the weekend for Rich to practice his leading and for Dan and Kevin to do their first winter climb. After some discussion and with a pretty miserable forecast with the freezing level going way above the summits we decided to go to the Ben and play safe on Ledge route.

The weather was still and warm but the ice was looking good so we managed to get a couple of warm up pitches on some easy angled ice to the start of Ledge route.  The boisterous boys were soon quiet as they peered over the Curtain to see the drop below. Putting everything they had learnt last weekend  into practice Dan and Kevin excelled and Rich followed my lead.

Dan looking cool!

Kevin concentrating

As usual Ledge route was a great choice of route for these new mountaineers who enjoyed every minute of it.

The boys topping out.

After navigating across to the top of Red Burn we enjoyed a quick descent to the bog. Kevin excelled himself further with several forward dives to gain wet feet and wet arms. Not stopping Adele marched on to ensure we were down before dark. Soon plans were made for a Clachaig dinner an beer to meet up with Raymond and Ellen who had had a great day at Lurchers crag in the Cairngorms. The atmosphere was electric and the pure buzz of the day continued. At 9.30 pm Adele returned home with an arrangement to pick the boys up at 7am to go to Curved Ridge.

Still dark and with more rain and snow than expected Adele was pleased to see the boys were ready for the off as we skated down the road. It was snowing pretty heavily and Ellen and Raymond set off breaking trail. As we approached Curved ridge it was evident that the weather was going to be challenging and slowed down our progress. With a plan to climb a few pitches and then retreat we thoroughly enjoyed the day with the ridge providing a great venue. 

Rich leading on the ridge.

Back at the cars for 3pm the boys made a hasty exit to the airport and caught their flights back to the City as Adele made her way to the Lakes to enjoy a three day rest after a magnificent fifteen days of true Scottish conditions.

 

Thank you to Richard, Kevin and Dan for two great weekends of work!

Ingaret and Andy take the lead 8th Feb

Today was the day for Adele to hand over the rack and allow Andrew and Ingaret to take over. Armed with the guide book and map the new leaders took control and soon found themselves at the bottom of the zig - zags (I) on Gearr Anoch. 

 

Ingaret placing protection.

With a good covering of snow the route prooved to be an excellent introduction to climbing on the sharp end.

The zig zags (I)

Once at the top we broke trail over Gearr Anoch and descended down the Lochan path in double quick time to end the week with coffee and cakes at the Glencoe Cafe.  A brilliant week despite the conditions and a big Well Done to Ingaret and Andrew

Perseverance pays off 7th Feb

With an early start we excitedly drove to the Ben where we had been cautioned to the icy track. Milly was doing well and then it all went wrong. Her wheels started to spin as the ditch came closer. Jumping out to fit her new chains was not so easy on a slippy slope. Other climbers were starting to roll up and the embarrassment grew. With chains fitted we tried again only to dig a deep hole in the ground and for Milly to get closer to the edge. Spike and Andrew were the stars and we came up with an extraction plan. Milly belayed to the tree  was pulled back in line with the track and slowly but surely we got her safely parked up. Apologies to everyone that we held up and a special thanks to Spike for his help.

Not deterred we carried on with our plan to ascend Ledge Route. Walking in to the Ben  was a spectacular show of climbers on all the classic lines.

    Climbers on the Curtain Ben Nevis

 

Soon we were on our route which stood up to its four stars today. The dim ery light added to the atmosphere and with not a breath of wind we could really enjoy being high on the UK's tallest mountain.

 

Ingaret and Andrew enjoying every minute of the day.

 

High on Ledge Route.

Pleased with our effort and perseverance we descended easily down the Red burn and back to Milly....  A superb day.