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Goggle free day 6th Feb

Ingaret and Andrew on top of their first Munro

Today we took advantage of the weather and went for a mountain day topping out on Buchaille etive Beag before practicing some more skills for Ingaret and Andrew to take away.

Descending the ridge

Preparing their bucket seats.

Tomorrow we are heading to Ben Nevis to ascend Ledge Route a classic grade I/II route.

Goggled Again 5th Feb

The forecast had slightly improved and the winds on the tops had dropped by 50mph to a mere 70mph instead of 120mph. With fresh snow at sea level the safe option was to head to dorsal arete, but to keep a keen eye on the snow conditions as we approached.

A trail had been blazed through making it a little easier for us but it was still character building as we moved up to the top Coire. With good visibility we could see our way to the bottom of the route and soon we were on the Arete with the first pitch giving some good neve

Ingaret and Andrew experiencing belay love.

As we gained height on the route the snow got a bit deeper but it did not deter progress.

Adele in her element ( Photo taken by Sam Leary also on Dorsal Arete )

 

Watching tentatively Ingaret and Andrew belayed as Adele made her way out across the traverse.

Ingaret and Andrew crossing the traverse.

The final pitch gave some more excellent neve and we were able to stand triumphantly on the top in a 35mph wind.

Once back in the coire we were lucky enough to find a shovel up hole to have lunch.

Adele in a hole

Well done to Ingaret and Andrew for a tremendoous effort on a difficult Scottish day.

 

Goggles again 4 Feb

Ingaret and Andrew facing the weather.

After a quick visit to Fort William to hire some boots we decided a visit to the Ice Factor would be a productive start to our week of Mountaineering. After a short coaching session Andrew and Ingaret were getting the hang of swinging their tools above their heads and had practiced  all their rope work skills for the forthcoming week.  After lunch it was time to brave the weather and fine tune those navigation skills. Pacing, timing, bearings all in horrendous conditions was the best way to ensure that Ingaret and Andy were confident in these conditions. Hopefully the winds will drop tomorrow for a goggle free day.

How things can change 2nd Feb

Pete and Kat retreating off the Ben

After leaving the Cairngorm car park on Monday morning wearing goggles it seems that they were a permanent fixture for the week to come.

On Wednesday Adele Kat and Peter managed to capture Dorsal Arete which was protected from the high winds. Ball bearings blasted our faces intermittently but the route was in reasonable condition. Lying flat on the top we crawled around to broad gully to escape form the winds and descend back to the coire floor.

The weather and avalanche forecast for Thursday looked reasonable so we set off to Ledge route on Ben Nevis. All was calm until the 11th hour and then snow piled in on gale force winds. Retreating quickly from the base of No 5 Gully we were met by other snow men also running away who we met later at the ice factor to enjoy some indoor ice climbing.

Friday dawned still and the forecast for lowering temperatures but high avalanche conditions gave us few options so we went to see if Ben Udlaigh would give a chance of any climbing. as we walked in the sodden slushy snow was an indicator that it was not to be. Disappointing yes but lots to learn.

Just one day later the temperatures dropped and the sun shone to give a perfect Scottish winter's day.

Dan and Kevin on the East ridge of Stob Coire nan Lochan

 

So what will the morning bring!

Wild and Windy in Scotland 30th Jan

On Sunday Cian, John and Peter arrived in Glasgow and they were soon heading North in the driving rain and gale force winds. Landing in Glencoe just after mid day they met up with Nick and made the 1pm to 3pm session in the Ice Factor. Although good fun and testing this did not really set the scene for the next day.

With high winds, and high avalanche risk on the West the final decision was made to take a trip to the Cairngorms. Departing early the drive set the scene for the day as we slid up to the top car park

Frazer Coleman ( MIC) was there smiling and waiting in the car park ready for today's adventures. It was one of those days where the outcome was unknown, I suppose this is what we call an adventure.

Fully booted and suited  and with goggles on from the car park we started our trail in to Core  Sneachda. Head's down there was no chatter until a fine view of the Coire appeared. Etching forward we made our way up to the bottom of Hidden Chimney.II/III

Peter fighting his way up the crux pitch.

 

Staying as a team of six we ascended the route reassessing the conditions after each pitch. It was fantastically Scottish and although windy as we topped out we were able to walk off without too much trouble. Delighted with our route we made it back to the desolate car park and very snowy road. With a couple of minor skids and a bump into a snow drift we returned to the wild west  for a roast beef dinner in Nevis Sport's bar.

Cian topping out.

Having experienced the delights of winter climbing, the next day was spent learning some essential rope work skills and trying out some big boot climbing before returning to the Airport.

 

 

Big Boot climbing in the rain!

 

Thanks to Cian, Nick, John Peter and Frazer for a true Adventure.