Third pitch of Ecrins Total (D+)
Adele is now back in the UK very briefly before heading off to Bolivia with a team of students from Firhill School. Clipping bolts on Multipitch French granite has been a superb way to get back into rock climbing after Lhotse.
Adele is taking bookings for summer rock climbing in August and September before heading out to Nepal again in October to lead Kyajo Ri for Jagged Globe
If your interested in French or UK rock then contact Adele or if you fancy joining the Kyajo Ri Expedition then contact Jagged GlobeThere are also places available on Adele's Mountain Leader Training course running from the 19th August to 24th August in the Lake District. Cost £440 fully residential.
Posted on 20 Jun 2012 by adele
Refuge le Ban
With a down pour in the morning the team decided that it wasa day for a picnic and walk up to the Refuge les Ban.
Amazingly the river was flooded and after two stream crossings we decided to take the high route.
Team on route to Refuge Les Ban
The weather looks better for tommorow so a climbing day has been planned in Ailefoide before Adele has to start work at 3pm with Outlook expeditions and the British School of Paris.
Adele is now taking bookings for the APM Mountain Leader Training course in the Lake District starting on the 19th August. If you would like further information please do not hesitate to contact Adele on 07968983146 or e mail.
Posted on 08 Jun 2012 by adele
Via Ferrata Day
Today was the day for Sam and Ros to experience their first Via Ferrata. After Sam's excellence perfomance on the rock we decided to launch straight into the the large gorge Via Ferrata over the Grand Durance.
Sam, Ros and Roger
After two hours of hanging off staples and exciting stuff we came to the final bridge which was swinging in the wind. Sometimes you just have to do it!
Just do it Ros
Whilst Ros was just doin it Nia age 5 was doing her first via Ferrata across the valley in Argentierre La Besse
Nia age 5 enjoying her first Via Ferrata
Posted on 07 Jun 2012 by adele
First Lead in Vallee de Claree
Today although the weather dawned a little bit cloudy we all left Vallouise to take to the rock in Vallee de Claree.
After warming up on some easier routes Sam Malone took hist first lead on Suzinox 5a
Sam age 10 after his lead on Suzinox
Posted on 06 Jun 2012 by adele
Lhotse Summit 6.15am 25th May 2012
The days had passed since the 19th May which saw five fatalities on Everest and one on Lhotse; the next weather window had developed and again it was to ascend through the ice fall to camp 2. This time I travelled with the Everest team, joining in the banter and feeling more secure than travelling between camps alone. The rest day at camp 2 passed uneventfully and soon we were back at camp 3. It was evident that we were not the only members in residence as other teams slowly filled the remaining tents. Early in the morning our Sherpas called and I met Kilu who was going to be my Sherpa for Lhotse.
Kilu went ahead and I left in front of the crowd to make my way up the rest of the Lhotse face, up across the yellow band to the Lhotse Y and then up to our camp four. Now with Oxygen it felt more pleasant and I played with my oxygen flow with Top Out Ted’s new regulator. Perhaps you could say I was dawdling, and yes I was; the views were stunning and the feel that you were now high in the sky a reality. At the Lhotse Y I could spot the Jagged Globe tent and Kilu waved, obviously proud of his tent platform. In no rush I wandered up to be greeted with hot sweet black tea. Feeling good Kilu and I tested the oxygen cylinders and discussed our plans. This year it was known that the Lhotse Couloir was very dry and stone fall was a real issue. Getting ahead of the rest of the climbers was important and we sorted out our equipment knowing that the route had not been properly fixed. In addition to Kilu and myself we had given up some spare space in the tent to Kinga who was now on her second try.
At 10pm Kilu started to put the stove on but then we realised we were two hours premature. Lying back in our sleeping bags we snoozed but too excited we got up in an hour. With the stove humming, we pulled on our boots and down suits. Everything is a real struggle at this altitude (7800m), but eventually we were ready and we shot off up the slopes towards the couloir. We were alone in the dark, only our lights were visible but as we turned towards Everest the line of many torches snaking up to the balcony made for a stunning sight.
As we reached the rock band we traversed right; crampon scratches marking the footsteps and then we saw three lights above. Not too worried we continued and as the couloir narrowed we caught the group up. Frustrated we moved slowly behind them, with no chance of passing as the sides of the couloir bounded by rock narrowed even further to an extent were each side could be reached by outstretched arms. After another 100m the gully opened up, a mixture of scree, rock and snow we broke free and passed sneakily on the right side. Kilu now in front looked disappointingly down at me as I failed to find any power.... going SLOWLY ... I was and then it dawned, I was on Oxygen and it had been several hours since we left camp. Kilu smiled as he looked at the regulator signalling empty and soon we had changed the cylinder and we were back on turbo. Unfortunately another team had zipped by us and we could see them making the final 50 m to the top. There were sections without rope and sections with a mass of frayed rope and also a body totally preserved which unfortunately we had to step across as we made the final steps up to the tiny summit.
Waiting just below whilst the other team basked in their glory we looked in awe at the corniced summit ridge of Lhotse. After a 20 minute wait we then took our place on the 5th highest mountain in the world. The wind was blowing hard and I wanted to descend as quickly as possible to avoid any danger of stone fall. Kilu and I smiled at each other and nodded through our masks and then off we went.
Adele on Lhotse Summit
Quickly and efficiently we used the ropes to guide us down, each foot placement was positive and not daring to abseil on the dodgy fixed lines we carefully retraced our steps passing the odd climber who had made a late start. Within an hour we had reached the traverse and taking refuge under a lip of rock we bit into an energy gel and shared some juice; the first since leaving camp. Now more relaxed we made it back to our camp to be welcomed by Top Out Ted and tea.
After an hours rest we gathered our personal equipment and camp supplies and started back down. It was hot and with heavy sacks and down suits we would travel a couple of hundred meters and then slump into the snow. Legs braced as we hand railed the fixed lines we eventually dropped onto the glacier towards camp 2. Heme our camps 2 cook and Chongba came to greet us with congratulations and juice. Not being too proud we gave them our loads and made our way to our camp two which was now exhibiting some excellent water features. Lhakpa then provided us with the customary Dhal Bhat before we both retired for exhausted sleep knowing that there was only one more journey through the ice fall to make.
Again at 4.30am the alarm went and slowly we packed our bags, tried to force down breakfast and started out through the Western Cwm. Sherpas were busy carrying loads and dismantling camps. The ladders across the huge crevasses barely touched the sides and wobbled furiously as we clanked across them. The radio then started to babble excitedly, first HRA and then Adam... “Adele, Adele from Jagged Globe base; There has been another collapse in the ice fall Where are you” .... “Above camp 1 I replied” only to hear the sense of relief in Adams sigh. Kinu and I looked at each other and as Kinu recited his prayers my heart bounded as we again went through the danger area. Recent debris covered the trail and ladders had disappeared into the chasms. Luckily there was a route through and soon we were back at the foot ball field. Taking off layers of clothes we had sight of base camp. Loads back on we continued to the bottom and just as we were about to rest we saw Pemba and another Sherpa waving. Fizzy Sprite in hand; we laid on the ice knowing that we were now safe and had taken Lhotse as our prize.
Posted on 26 May 2012 by adele